Le Vetiver : a history of perfume

Like many natural materials, Haitian Vetiver (Chrizopogon Zizanioides) has been known for centuries. At least since antiquity, as written traces of its use can be found in Ayurvedic writings from the 10th century BC. Its name comes from the south of India, in particular from the region of western Tamil Nadu where it originates and more precisely from the Tamil word “vettiveru”. It is also called Khus Khus in many regions of India. It is only at the beginning of the 19th century that it begins to be introduced in Europe as often for the needs of perfumery. Appreciated for its woody notes, both tenacious and earthy, it is then regularly associated with the most noble materials such as Neroli, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Rose or Patchouli.

VERY DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF VETIVER

Vetiver is found today in many tropical countries, particularly in Haiti, Madagascar, Indonesia, Brazil and China. Although there are a dozen species of vetiver, there are mainly 3 used in perfumery, all from the grass family and the genus Vetiveria Zizanioïde : Bourbon vetiver, Haitian vetiver and Java vetiver. The former is known for its earthy, fine and slightly pink notes, while Haitian vetiver is more woody, green and Java vetiver smoky to the extreme.. Bourbon vetiver has long been considered the most noble, due to its exceptional quality, but it has now largely disappeared to the benefit of Haitian vetiver, which alone accounts for nearly half of the world’s production (out of a global production of around 150 tons per year).

HOW DO WE RECOGNIZE VETIVER?

A kind of invasive green tuft with high, thread-like leaves, vetiver owes its fame to its roots that grow vertically up to 3 meters deep. They are essential in several respects. First of all, they effectively fight against soil erosion: by increasing its fertility, conserving its humidity and stabilizing its movements. In another register, they are an excellent way to repel moths and more globally insects. Dug up, the rhizomes finally give off a characteristic smell appreciated by perfumers: both tenacious and earthy, woody and smoky. An all-purpose herb qualified as “Mirak Plant” or “miracle plant” by the Haitians.

VETIVER CULTIVATION: A ROBUST PLANT

Vetiver is generally found in tropical or subtropical regions. It grows more on humid soils and more precisely on plains, near rivers or swamps. But the plant is particularly resistant thanks to its sheathing leaves and the length of its roots (which sink up to 3 meters deep). Vetiver survives the most extreme conditions, from long periods of drought to heavy floods and even cyclones. It should be noted that the plant acts as its own insect repellent.

VETIVER CULTIVATION IN HAITI

In Haiti, you will come across Vetiver everywhere. It’s simple, it is estimated that nearly one out of two inhabitants has a plot of vetiver on his land. And that more than 50,000 families in the South live from this agricultural activity. The harvest is called “the digging”, since the earth must be turned over with a fork to extract the roots.It begins in December the year following the first plantations. After 18 months, the grass clump is cut short and the roots are removed from the ground. This is only done in the dry season and with certain precautions to avoid soil erosion. They are then arranged in bundles or “balls” to be distilled into essential oil (note that it takes 150kg of roots and no less than 24 hours of “cooking”to obtain one liter of oil).

OUR ESSENTIAL OIL PRODUCER : KAM

For Le Sourceur, we chose to work with the producer KAM who follows a demanding traditional manufacturing process and works with cooperatives operating in the La Cayes and Cavaillon regions. Vetiver is grown in the mountainous regions of Haiti in a cool and regulated environment.

VETIVER ROOT: VARIOUS USES

Vetiver roots are reputed to be particularly effective in combating soil erosion while facilitating rain absorption. But they are also used throughout the world in many ways as much because of its fascinating smell as for its exceptional properties. 

EVERYDAY OBJECTS : 

Traditionally, women used to weave curtains, screens or even fans with dry vetiver roots while sprinkling them with water in order to scent the air with fresh and woody fragrances. It worked a bit like scented air conditioning. 

A MAJOR SCENT IN PERFUMERY:

Vetiver has been in the compositions of the greatest perfumers for many years , who strongly appreciate its woody, spicy and aromatic notes. If it is a major part of men’s perfumery, especially at the end of the 50’s with famous creations such as Vétiver by Carven or Vétiver by Guerlain,it has also made its mark in women’s perfumery, with the no less famous Cabochard de Grès.

A ROOT WITH MANY BENEFITS:

Vetiver essential oil promises calm and serenity and is recognized as an antidepressant in Ayurvedic medicine. In aromatherapy it is its anchoring and self-confidence properties that are highlighted.

“THE VETIVER GROWS WHERE NOTHING GROWS

We remember this sentence heard at the corner of a market in Port-Au-Prince during our first Haitian trip in 2009. At the time, vetiver cultivation was abundant on the island, and the perfume industry had made it its favorite playground to develop its range of fragrances for men. A real boon for the industry, the sector was not yet a source of happiness for local producers, who were largely sidelined in this frantic race for supplies…

A PLANT ESSENTIAL TO HAITIAN SOILS…

Called ” Mirak Plant ” by the Haitians, the material is essential in the safeguarding and enrichment of the land; for its ability to grow everywhere, to resist all weather conditions, but especially for its preponderant role in reducing soil erosion. A real boon for this island constantly devastated by natural disasters; in Haiti, we often hear people say: “When there is nothing left, there is only vetiver to stand on“..

…AND TO THE ECONOMIC LIFE OF THE COUNTRY

On the other hand, its exploitation continues to increase every year and occupies an increasingly important place in the economy of this agricultural country. It is estimated that today more than 50 000 families live from the plant. But with too much desire to exploit it, vetiver soon found itself facing its biggest dilemma. Should it be preserved or cultivated? To put it in context, in 2008, there was no form of annual stock limitation. This led to overexploitation and a drop in prices. Every day, producers were carrying bundles of tens of kilos on their backs for barely 50 cents of euro. Every day the plots of vetiver that had been torn out and not replaced were losing ground. We were walking on our heads.

A GROUP OF PERFUMERS TO SUPERVISE THE INDUSTRY

It is in this logic that an associative grouping was created on the initiative of the main cosmetic and perfumery companies present in the field. With the collective will to make the vetiver industry fair and sustainable, while minimizing its environmental impact. This grouping is called NRSC or Natural Resource Stewardship Circle.

THEIR ACTION ON THE GROUND IN HAITI

In concrete terms, and without interfering in the local economy, the association aims to perpetuate the industry by establishing common rules of practice to be adopted, which are values such as transparency, fairness and protection of biodiversity.Clearly, the group tends to fix the purchase of roots at the fairest price in order to increase the income of farmers, facilitates the creation of cooperatives to regulate and control stocks (and avoid both overexploitation that would weaken the soil and lead to a downward leveling of prices). It also creates replanting programs in the most sensitive areas. If this association does not exist anymore, leaving the place to cooperatives and beautiful local projects like our producer KAM, it was a total success which shows that collective initiatives lead to positive changes.

websites

1. La racine du Vétiver par Sylvaine Delacourte
2. Le Vétiver : une palette de senteurs végétales par l’Osmothèque
3. Vétiver, Wikipédia
4. Chrizopogon Zinanioïde, Wikipédia

in the books

1. La Science des Huiles Essentielles médicinales, par Pierre Franchomme, éditée chez Guy Trédaniel, p138
2. Vétiver : le Vétiver en parfumerie, par Eléonore de Bonneval, Olivier David R.P., Jeanne Doré et Anne-Sophie Hojlo, édité chez Nez, 2020

behind the camera

1. Le Vétiver à Haïti, réalisation Martinique la 1ère